And Now, for a Mitt that Wins!

I've got hair on my knuckles.  I'm so happy.

See, I'd grilled without hand protection up till now.  And you can do that, if your hands aren't real sensitive to heat.  It won't kill you, just cremate the hair on your dominant hand.  But otherwise, you can totally do it and...

...hell, who am I kidding?  Grilling without a glove or hot mitt or something is ridiculous.  I did it mostly because the dexterity that a glove affords is kind of useful when you're trying to flip a bunch of asparagus without making half of it fall through into the coals.  So grilling hand protection needs to allow your hand to move unimpeded, while still protecting you from 450 degrees of radiant heat.  It's a tall order.

But it's also an easy one.  For under $15 on Amazon, I scored the Pit Mitt. 

Stretchy Aramid fiber (Kevlar!  Like body armor!) glove, silicone grid on the surface so you can keep a grip on your tongs, fits an adult male hand tightly, acceptable dexterity.  Done!

In the Pit Mitt, your hand gets fairly warm a good few minutes arranging the coals after you dump out your chimney starter - but your bare hand would be well into first-degree burn territory.  You can flip a half-dozen burgers and not feel anything but the barest warmth.

I have no idea how many shopping days are left till Christmas, but it'd make a great Christmas present, too.

Relocated and Relit

The fire went out for me there for a bit - left stressful old job, started awesome new job in a town 500 miles away....life happened.  But let's see if we can get the fire relit now that life is getting back to something like normal.  I live, now, in Alamogordo, NM - a plain little military town by any standard, but smack in the middle of green chile country.  It's a good place for a guy who's perfectly happy having green chile on damn near everything, grilled or otherwise.  At Caliche's Frozen Custard, one can even get a green chile sundae.  I'll have to deal with the bugger properly, on its own terms.

It's also quite to my liking because grilling season is not just year-round, but comfortable.  Today had a bit of a cold snap, but all last week I was grilling in shorts and flip-flops.  At night.  In November, fer cryin' out loud.  I'll hunch next to the grille in 20 degree weather with the best of 'em, but this is pretty cool.  

Oh, and I bought a new grill to reward myself for the new job. 

It's pretty. 

It's a Weber One-Touch Platinum.  The One-Touch is Weber's name for the standard, much imitated but never surpassed, 22.5in kettle charcoal grill.  At the heart of each model in the range is the enameled steel kettle.  The One-Touch Silver is the ~$100 base model, Gold gets you a detachable ash catcher and a thermometer for ~$150, and Platinum ditches the sometimes flimsy tripod legs of the other two and gives you this steel tube frame and a pair of side tables.  It's $250 and, if you're serious about grilling at all, worth every cent.  

I didn't realize this until I had it assembled in front of me, but it's taller than the tripod-legged Weber grill.  It's at least six inches taller than my old Silver grill.  For a tallish guy, that means you're not bending over the grill but standing next to it, with the work surface is a bit higher than waist height.  It sounds like a small thing, but relaxing and standing up straight while grilling is just great.  I also end up smelling less like smoke, because I'm not hunched over the fire.  The added height might not be ideal for a shorter person, but I like it a lot.  If you grill a couple nights a week, the comfort factor is not negligible. 

It's absolutely necessary to have some kind of side table for grilling.  I've been using a plastic folding outdoor table for some time, and it's great for prep. And as you can see from the picture, the One-Touch Platinum has two tables, one on each side.  They're not huge, but they'll hold a large platter each, and they're very stable.  They're nice mostly because they're close to the grill surface, and to have your beer, basting sauce, and tongs close at hand is pretty great. 

The Gold and Silver grilles just have a hook on the interior of the lid to hang it off the edge when the grille's not closed, and while it works, it's not very secure.  Because of the side tables, the One-Touch lets you slide the lid back and off with the big handle on the front of the lid.  The lid never comes off, it just opens like that of a gas grille.  There's no hinge; it just slides back into a metal cradle around back. In addition to being a nice solution to taking the lid off with the side tables intact, I think this setup makes it easier to check for doneness and then close the lid back up quickly while keeping the heat under the lid.

The frame is metal, and bolted together sturdily.  The whole unit feels very solid and took about half an hour or so to assemble.  It rolls easily on the oversized plastic wheels, and the wire tray at the bottom is a useful place to stash your charcoal tongs or indirect grilling baskets or what have you.  

Most of the other upgrade features are also on the One-Touch Gold grill.  There's a thermometer, which will be nice for monitoring temps while making pizza, and the removable ash catcher is cleaner than my old galvanized steel bucket.  I upgraded the actual grille grate - review to follow! - but the grate that comes with the Platinum has hinged sides to make indirect grilling easier.  

The One-Touch Platinum's higher work surface, side tables, and innovative lid make it more comfortable and pleasant to use, and I can't think think of a more useful grill setup than this.  My dad's Weber Performer has a side table, but it's still at the standard lower height, and its side table is smaller than the Platinum's two together.  Unless you plan to grill only infrequently, the extra expense of the Platinum is money well spent - I'm looking forward to using it for years.  

Grilled Collards

I've been playing with a new trick that I'm not entirely pleased with yet, but which is coming along: grilled greens.  In tonight's case, it was collards.  It's pretty dang simple: take a big, leafy dark green veggie like kale, collards, bok choy, or chard, spray it with olive oil from a pump sprayer (or the good old Pam can) and toast the leaves briefly on the grill, until they wilt and develop little browned spots all over.  They take on a nice toasty, nutty, smoky flavor and make for a nice side salad with whatever else you're grilling.  It's also wicked quick - you can cook a whole head of collards while you're waiting for the grill to preheat for the main dish.

I think I toasted the collards a bit much tonight.  They were sort of crispy and crumbly, which was interesting but oddly reminiscent of eating sushi nori.  I'd probably dial back the time they spent on the grill to about 45 or so seconds, just enough to wilt and mark them.  And then I'd get off my lazy ass and cut out the central rib on each leaf, because while it's useful while flipping the leaves, it doesn't really soften much. 

They're quite tasty with nothing but olive oil and a sprinkling of flaky salt on them, but I might try a simple viniagrette sometime.  Give it a shot and let me know how it goes.

Department of Why Didn't I Think Of That: The Grill Comb

So I saw the Grill Comb on Uncrate and I think I have to own it:

No bamboo splinters in your kebabs.  No crushed tomatoes.  No spinning hunks of bell pepper.  No trying and failing to get hunks of meat meat off the skewer without sending them ping-ponging all over the table and/or dining room.  I like it.  They're reusable and made of stainless steel, so they should last a while.  Apparently they're $11 for a set of two, which is fairly silly, but why not?

Pollo Borracho Tacos

Chicken tacos are something I, as a general rule and practice, avoid when eating out.  They're just not...very good.  I don't know who thought that chalky, dry, white meat chicken dusted with some fajita spices made for a good taco filling...well, now that I say that, I don't think anybody thought it made a good taco filling.  It was just something for the unhealthily calorie-conscious to order while those who were serious about their tacos got down on some carnitas or barbacoa, like San Vicente El Taquero Celestial* intended.

Part of the problem is that chicken breast contains perhaps as much fat as a block of tofu, and when it's subjected to 4-600 degrees of dry, intense heat on a grill, it's insanely difficult to keep moist.   The other issue is that only rarely does anybody do anything interesting with the chicken.  Mostly, it's just indifferently sprinkled with chili powder.  So how to make a chicken taco something that stands proudly with carne asada and birria as something worth eating with gusto?

My answer to the question is....well, mine.  This is my goddamned recipe.  I thought of it, I've never found anything like it anywhere else, and I'm proud of it.  It's called pollo borracho, or drunken chicken.

First off, ditch the chicken breast.  When it comes to grilling, I'm a thigh man - chicken thighs, that is, boneless and skinless.  In fact, the chicken thigh is my favorite meat to grill.  Its robust flavor takes a marinade beautifully, but isn't so distinctive that it can't play well with the flavors of any cuisine.  They're not smooth - they've got plenty of little crevasses and tags and bits that get all crispy and browned.  And they're so moist that they come off the grill succulent and juicy, not stringy and mealy.

Then bathe those thighs in a potent adobo of beer, New Mexico red chile powder, and spices.  After marinating for a day or so, throw them on a hot grill and baste them with their own marinade, letting it cook down to a crusty, deeply browned glaze.  It's truly something special.  You'll never order chicken tacos at a restaurant again.

Charlie's Pollo Borracho Tacos

1.5lb boneless, skinless chicken thighs - about 5-8 thighs
1/2 cup beer - doesn't have to be anything fancy, but dark beer is great
1/3 cup oil
3 tablespoons red New Mexico chile powder (not chili powder, which is a mix of spices, but pure powdered chiles.  Substitute half and half powdered ancho and guajillo chiles if the New Mexico variety isn't available.)
1 tablespoon sherry vinegar or lime juice
1 teaspoon Kosher salt

1 teaspoon Mexican oregano, crushed (don't use Italian/Greek oregano, which is a different species)

1 teaspoon garlic powder

Pinch ground cloves
1/4 teaspoon ground Mexican cinnamon (canela)
1/2 teaspoon ground black pepper
1/2 teaspoon ground cumin

To serve:
Corn tortillas, as many as desired
Salsa
Avocado wedges or guacamole
Shredded Cotija cheese
Chopped cilantro


Combine all ingredients besides chicken in a nonreactive bowl, whisking to combine.  Marinate chicken at least 8 hours or overnight.  Reserve marinade and, if desired, boil in saucepan for one minute to sterilize after chicken is removed. 

Preheat grill to high heat.  Grill chicken, turning every 60-75 seconds, basting with every turn, until juices run clear and chicken is sizzling and lightly charred in places.  Warm tortillas on grill for about 30 seconds, then cover or place in tortilla warmer.  Chop chicken into 1/2 inch dice, then serve at once with tortillas and garnishes.  Alternatively, makes spectacular tostadas.

* San Vicente (or Saint Vincent of Saragossa) is indeed the patron saint of taco makers.  

Sauce that 'Cue

A guy I know on a forum I frequent sent me an email that I hope he doesn't mind if I turn into a post.

Long-time listener, first time PM'er. As the OT-resident grill master, I need some assistance. Wife finally got tired of me complaining about the storebought BQ sauces tasting like HFCS-laden ass. Got any non-secret recipes you are comfortable sharing? More of a Memphis/K.C. style, but a good Carolina wouldn't be out of the question either. I'll hang up and listen. Thanks!!

I happen to agree that most BBQ sauces in the stores taste like HFCS-laden ass, and we don't need to patronize that crap.  So here's my thoughts on barbecue sauce. It's not so much a recipe as it is a starting point. Make it yours. I make it differently depending on what I'm slathering it on and how I'm feeling day by day.

My starting point is this: what does a barbecue sauce need to do? It needs to play nice with the smoky flavor of barbecue or grilled meat, it needs to cut fatty richness with acid or heat or both, it needs to be a little sweet so the acidity and heat don't overwhelm, and it needs a little local flair. I call my sauce "Charlie's Red Rock Barbecue Sauce" because it draws heavily on flavors and techniques from the Southwest. Maybe it's Denver-style barbecue sauce.

As with any recipe, you start by building a flavor base, and you do that by sauteing your aromatic ingredients in oil. In this case, it's sauteed onion, garlic, and fresh chiles if you're using them. If you're notdoing a Southwestern sauce, I still recommend adding some minced jalapenos to taste or at least a few dashes of Sriracha or Frank's Red Hot, because a good barbecue sauce needs a little bite.

The Flavor Base:

3tbsp vegetable oil

1 medium red onion, minced

5 cloves garlic, minced, passed through a garlic press, or grated on a microplane

2 tbsp tomato paste

Optional, for more Southwestern flava:

Fresh Chiles if You're Using Them - chopped hot Autumn Roast New Mexico Green Chiles, minced jalapeno or fresno chiles, or minced poblano chile (see thoughts on chiles)

1 canned chipotle chile in adobo, minced, plus a few teaspoons of the adobo sauce, if using.

Heat the oil over medium-low heat, until shimmering, in a saucepan. Add the onion and cook slowly until it's getting soft and translucent. Then add the garlic, tomato paste, chile paste, and chipotle with its adobo sauce. Stir until the mix gets intensely fragrant, around a minute or so. Then add....

The Sauce Base

1/2 cup drained diced canned tomatoes, preferably fire roasted - Muir Glen brand is the best. Save a tablespoon or two of the liquid and add that too.

1/4 cup ketchup

3 tbsp Worcestershire sauce

3-5 tbsp Spanish viniagre de Jerez (sherry vinegar) - try to find it. It's awesome, awesome stuff. In a pinch, cider vinegar will do, but sherry vinegar is the bomb diggity. Add more if you like your sauce with more acid, less if you like it sweeter.

1/4 cup orange juice
1/4 cup beer of your choice

2 tablespoons molasses
3 tablespoons dark brown sugar or honey

1/2 tsp black pepper

1 1/2 teaspoons fresh thyme (or 3/4 tsp dried)
1 bay leaf
1 tsp salt
1 tsp ground allspice
A dash of liquid smoke, if you wish, and if you're not using chipotles.

For a More Traditional Sauce

3 tbsp yellow, dijon, or coarse-ground mustard

For a Southwestern Sauce - don't add the mustard if you're doing this!

1 teaspoon ground cumin
1 teaspoon ground coriander

1 teaspoon Mexican oregano - not regular Italian/Greek oregano!

Chile powder to taste, if you're using it (see Thoughts on Chiles)

Simmer everything together, covered, for an hour or so, adding a little orange juice or a splash of beer if it gets too cooked down. Let it cool, then puree the dickens out of it in a blender until it's smooth and saucy. Taste it. Nom! Too thick? Add water or orange juice. Need more acid because it's going on fatty pulled pork? Add more vinegar. Need more sweet? Add honey. Taste flat or like it needs something? Add salt. Should make 2 1/2 to 3 1/2 cups of sauce.

Thoughts on Chiles

Chiles are glorious in a barbecue sauce, because they add a ton of flavor, body, and character. They can add a ton of fruity, smoky, spicy notes and you can make it as hot or as mild as you like. You can use fresh chiles (like roasted NM green chiles, fresnos, jalapenos) and/or powdered chiles. Don't use chili powder, which is a mix of ground chile, garlic, onion, and oregano - use pure powdered chiles. My favorite spice shop, Savory Spice Shop, sells every chile powder under the sun, but you can also find most chile powders in Mexican markets or, at least out West and in areas with a big Hispanic population, in the supermarket. You can also toast whole dried chiles in a warm oven for a few minutes, seed them, then grind them into powder.

For your fresh chiles, I love hot Autumn Roast New Mexico Green Chiles, because they're glorious - sweet and grassy and earthy, with a slow, sweet burn. You could also throw in some minced jalapenos or fresnos (it'll be a little hotter, then) or a minced poblano (a forest green, dark, fresh chile that's mild but has a nice herbal flavor.)

What kind of chiles to use? Experiment. Ancho chiles have a sweet, fig-raisin flavor and very little heat, so they're a natural for sweet-savory barbecue sauce. New Mexico red chiles (the ripe, dried version of NM greens) have a brighter, sparkier flavor than anchos do, but still sweet and fruity - my favorite. Guajillos have an interesting piney, fresh, almost tart flavor that pairs excellently with pork. Cascabels are earthy and woody and quite spicy. Chiles de Arbol are woody and viciously hot. Habaneros are die-mother****er spicy, with a sweet tropical fruit flavor in the background. Chipotles have a strong bite and a pronounced smokiness - excellent if you want to make your sauce smoky without using liquid smoke, but should be used in moderation and paired with other chiles. My favorite version of the sauce uses autumn roast NM greens, a half teaspoon each of guajillo and ancho, and some chipotle. My sauce for pork leans heavily on guajillo, red NM chile powder, and cascabel. I wouldn't add more than two tablespoons total of chile powder, because then it starts over-thickening the sauce.

Lump Charcoal: Worth it or Not?

If you read most of the high-profile grilling cookbooks - Steven Raichlen's Barbecue! Bible and How to Grill, Weber's Way to Grill and Weber's Big Book of Grilling by Jaime Purviance, Adam Perry Lang's recent and interesting Charred and Scruffed - the author usually insists that one should really grill only over lump charcoal.

I've started to wonder if that's really useful advice.  I'm not going to lie: I questioned the advice because I'm cheap, and lump charcoal is expensive.  I'd rather get a giant bag of briquettes at Costco for $10 than a small 8.8lb bag of the lump stuff for about the same.  But does lump charcoal really improve flavor or the grilling process?

Over the past few months, I've grilled flatiron steaks and asparagus over three types of charcoal:,  Kingsford's Competition Briquettes (my good-value Costco score), Kingsford's blue-bag Original briquettes, and one over some Cowboy brand mesquite lump charcoal.  I grilled the steak first, then the vegetables, to test the longevity of the heat source.  I used the same quantity of charcoal each time and ignited it with a chimney starter.

The results were essentially identical in flavor; charcoal is charcoal, really, and any interesting volatiles that would lend a distinct mesquite flavor to the meat were burned off as it smoldered.  The mesquite sparked and crackled violently as I cooked, which could suggest that there were still pockets of sap and so forth, but it wasn't apparent in the flavor. 

Lump charcoal required a slightly different and more mindful grilling approach, I noticed. The lump charcoal burned hot but lost heat quickly, and the asparagus took longer to cook.  The sear on the steak's surface, however, was excellent, as the amount of heat the lump charcoal was throwing off was truly impressive.  It required more frequent turning, however, and as smaller pieces of charcoal burned out, hot spots developed across the grill surface.   In contrast, the briquettes threw off a lot less heat throughout the process, but their heat delivery was uniform and long-lasting; I could even grill peaches for dessert later. There were no hotspots.  It took notably longer to grill a steak over the Kingsford Originals, and I could hold my hand over the fire a full second longer, so they were burning much cooler than the lump charcoal or the Competition variety.

Lump charcoal is purer than the Kingsford Original briquettes, which are pressed from a variety of miscellaneous woods and are amended with saltpeter, sawdust, mineral carbon, and other additives.  The Original briquettes smoke more than lump charcoal on ignition and can still throw off some smoke as you grill - this can result in off, acrid flavors.  The Kingsford Competition Briquette uses only wood char and starch, and so they burn just about as clearly as the lump charcoal I used.  They didn't smoke a bit once they were red-hot.  The Originals also left a substantial heap of white ash after they were fully combusted, whereas the Competitions and lump charcoal left substantially less.

My verdict?  Lump charcoal delivers clean, high heat, but it's less predictable and uniform than briquettes.  For some, that added challenge will be fun, and its high heat can be very useful.  It doesn't add much flavor, so don't let that make your decision. For everyday grilling, the Kingsford Competition briquette delivers predictable, uniform, and very high heat, sell for cheaper, and last longer, and they're my pick over lump charcoal.  The Kingsford Original will do in a pinch, but it's cool burning and occasional smoking aren't ideal - so if you don't use lump charcoal, step up to a less amended briquette like Competition, Stubb's, or Trader Joe's, which burn cleaner.