Chicken tacos are something I, as a general rule and practice, avoid when eating out. They're just not...very good. I don't know who thought that chalky, dry, white meat chicken dusted with some fajita spices made for a good taco filling...well, now that I say that, I don't think
anybody thought it made a good taco filling. It was just something for the unhealthily calorie-conscious to order while those who were
serious about their tacos got down on some carnitas or barbacoa, like San Vicente El Taquero Celestial* intended.
Part of the problem is that chicken breast contains perhaps as much fat as a block of tofu, and when it's subjected to 4-600 degrees of dry, intense heat on a grill, it's insanely difficult to keep moist. The other issue is that only rarely does anybody do anything interesting with the chicken. Mostly, it's just indifferently sprinkled with chili powder. So how to make a chicken taco something that stands proudly with carne asada and birria as something worth eating with gusto?
My answer to the question is....well, mine. This is my goddamned recipe. I thought of it, I've never found anything like it anywhere else, and I'm proud of it. It's called pollo borracho, or drunken chicken.
First off, ditch the chicken breast. When it comes to grilling, I'm a thigh man - chicken thighs, that is, boneless and skinless. In fact, the chicken thigh is my favorite meat to grill. Its robust flavor takes a marinade beautifully, but isn't so distinctive that it can't play well with the flavors of any cuisine. They're not smooth - they've got plenty of little crevasses and tags and bits that get all crispy and browned. And they're so moist that they come off the grill succulent and juicy, not stringy and mealy.
Then bathe those thighs in a potent
adobo of beer, New Mexico red chile powder, and spices. After marinating for a day or so, throw them on a hot grill and baste them with their own marinade, letting it cook down to a crusty, deeply browned glaze. It's truly something special. You'll never order chicken tacos at a restaurant again.
Charlie's Pollo Borracho Tacos
1.5lb boneless, skinless chicken thighs - about 5-8 thighs
1/2 cup beer - doesn't have to be anything fancy, but dark beer is great
1/3 cup oil
3 tablespoons red New Mexico chile powder (not chili powder, which is a mix of spices, but pure powdered chiles. Substitute half and half powdered ancho and guajillo chiles if the New Mexico variety isn't available.)
1 tablespoon sherry vinegar or lime juice
1 teaspoon Kosher salt
1 teaspoon Mexican oregano, crushed (don't use Italian/Greek oregano, which is a different species)
1 teaspoon garlic powder
Pinch ground cloves
1/4 teaspoon ground Mexican cinnamon (canela)
1/2 teaspoon ground black pepper
1/2 teaspoon ground cumin
To serve:
Corn tortillas, as many as desired
Salsa
Avocado wedges or guacamole
Shredded Cotija cheese
Chopped cilantro
Combine all ingredients besides chicken in a nonreactive bowl, whisking to combine. Marinate chicken at least 8 hours or overnight. Reserve marinade and, if desired, boil in saucepan for one minute to sterilize after chicken is removed.
Preheat grill to high heat. Grill chicken, turning every 60-75 seconds, basting with every turn, until juices run clear and chicken is sizzling and lightly charred in places. Warm tortillas on grill for about 30 seconds, then cover or place in tortilla warmer. Chop chicken into 1/2 inch dice, then serve at once with tortillas and garnishes. Alternatively, makes spectacular tostadas.
* San Vicente (or Saint Vincent of Saragossa) is indeed the patron saint of taco makers.